Schloss Kapfenburg + Nördlingen

The same day I posted about past bad experiences in my life, I happened to have another very pleasant one. Enjoying a whole week off duty from work, in order to use up the remainder of my vacation from 2011, I hopped on my car and drove to a town called Nördlingen, following the friendly advice of a friend of mine (Jörg, the husband of Nina). Knowing only that Nördlingen is a picturesque town, I was still pleasantly surprised how true this actually is.

On the road from Oberkochen to Nördlingen, which is a total drive of 30+ min, I also encountered a castle by the name of Kapfenburg. - A "castle", being a "castellum" in the Latin original, would denote a type of fortified structure, like the German "Burg"; however, the German "Schloss", while being related to the German verb "schließen" (to close, to lock), nowadays refers to a rather unfortified palace-like home of great splendor. Nevertheless, apparently owing to the etymology of Schloss, the two meanings are not fully separated, and hence Kapfenburg is actually Schloss Kapfenburg. Despite several attacks on the compound, it is in an excellent state till the present day and thus open for (free) visits, and also the home of a musical academy (I could hear them practice), plus the location of a restaurant that is specialized on weddings. In light of the breathtaking view from the hilltop, I can definitely see how that would be a good choice, even without having tried their menu.

Schloss Kapfenburg

Schloss Kapfenburg - gate details

Schloss Kapfenburg - a citadel-type building within

Schloss Kapfenburg - the interior side of the gate

Nördlingen itself also made it through history without significant damage. Centuries ago it was styled a Freie und Reichsstadt (contracted to Freie Reichsstadt, or Free City of the Empire, in the vernacular). The empire, or Reich, in question, was the Holy Roman Empire (later: Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation), a succession state of the Carolingian Empire of Charlemagne (Charles the Great). It was Charlemagne who adopted the title of emperor from the waning (western) Roman Empire (waning in particular because it had been split in west and east; the eastern part being the Byzanine Empire). (Note that in these times each part of the empire had a prime ruler, the Imperator, and a second in command, the Caesar, the Latin original of Cesar. Ironically, the German word for emperor, which is obviously derived from imperator, is Kaiser, which itself is derived from Caesar.) - The sons of Charlemagne soon engaged in a succesion war, which ultimately resulted in a division of the former western Roman empire in a western Franconian realm and an eastern Franconian realm. The latter then became the Holy Roman Empire under the regnum of the Ottonians (at first), and was to last until the 19th century, when Napoléon Bonaparte from the former western part of the Franconian realm, now known as France, challenged the east (or what was left of it after such notable conflicts as the Thirty Years' War between Protestants and Catholics) for the throne and the imperial crown. Being a highly capable military commander, he defeated most everyone in Europe and declared himself Emperor of France, thus extinguishing the Holy Roman Empire of the German Nation. The latter, however, maintained a successor from its own ranks in the house of Habsburg, which continued to rule over Austria. Ever since this "schism" (of the imperial style between France and Austria) modern-day Austria and Germany have been separate countries (if we disregard a short period of reunification in the darkest of times in the 20th century). Napoléon, also a very cunning man, promoted many members of the German nobility, and especially the elevation from Duke to King (e.g. in Bavaria) gave some of them a feeling of independence that competed with the idea of belonging to a greater entity. When the Bonaparte dynasty faded (still within the 19th century), and Germany was reunited under the lead of Prussia, the German Empire was formed/restored. Austria, however, remained separate, and continued to uphold its own imperial style. Thus, in 1914, there were five great powers in Europe who clashed over their (colonial) expansionism: Russia, France, England, Germany, and Austria. Eventually, in 1918, the Austro-German alliance was defeated, and the German Emperor was forced to abdicate, giving way for the first Republican government on German soil. Unfortunately, World War I had wrecked the German economy, had empoverished much of the German population, and some people wanted revenge on the French for the defeat. Therefore, Hitler was able to assume absolute power and establish his reign of terror, which took an estimated death toll of 60 - 70 million, but fortunately ended long before the proclaimed 1,000 years it was supposed to last.

I apologize for deviating from the original topic of Freie Reichsstadt by this much. But I intended to point out that although in the anglophonic community the word Reich may be primarily associated with the unholy Third Reich, it is not per se the term under which Hitler's evildoing is best subsumed. In fact, the idea of a Reich is associated with a monarchy, and Hitler was not a monarch, rather than a dictator. (Likewise, a monarchy is not neccessarily the opposite of a democracy, as it is easily exemplified by the UK. The opposite of a monarchy is a republic; i.e., a nation whose head of state is elected and not crowned.) Nevertheless, Hitler saw his ruling as Reich #3, where #1 was the Holy Roman Empire (962-1806), and #2 was the rather short-lived German Empire (1871-1918). - By the way, I remember once reading about Germany in the CIA factbook that it had achieved its "independence" in 1871. That is a rather crude misrepresentation of the historical accounts: in light of the historical roots the concept of gaining Independence does not apply to Germany, but then again, it is an American source, and in American history forming a nation required gaining independence. It is true though that the moment of forming the nation of Germany is usually attributed to the creation of the German Empire.

There is another reason why I layed out the history of Germany by this extent. Previously I have told you about the three most difficult times in my life. They appear to have occurred in ascending order: #3 civilian service, #2 a bad breakup, #1 recent unemployment. Likewise, the three German Reiche (the plural of Reich) appear to have an increased moral corruption, in my personal, naïve perception: #1 was an entity struggling for power with its neighbors and rivals from within, but neccessarily (to the best of my knowledge) an example for cruely and barbaric behavior that goes beyond its contemporaries. #2 was looking for a fight with its neighbors, but at the end of the day the neighbors were eager themselves to slug it out for the lead in Europe. It was the cruelty of ensuing World War I (chemical weapons, trench warfare, introduction of the battle tank etc.) that leaves the German Empire in a bad light. Yet #3, as much as it ashames me, is now for all times the textbook example of a rogue state and an enemy to humanity.

Therefore, let's enjoy the scenic sight of Nördlingen, and for the moment forget about the Nazi horror.

Nördlingen - church of St. Georg from afar

Nördlingen - one of the city gates

St. Georg from below

typical house in Nördlingen

Nördlingen - another city gate

steep (!) stairs inside the tower at the (second) city gate

first city gate again, seen from inside

"He who prefers safety over freedom deserves being enslaved."

beautiful sunset just outside the city wall of Nördlingen

Happiness - A Matter of Perspective

This post will be different. I won't feature a photo, or any other type of media. It will consist of mere text. It will also tell you more about the way I feel, rather than the way I think.

Recently the military draft system in Germany has been suspended. As per the German constitution (the Grundgesetz, or basic law, § 4.3), "noone shall be forced to do military service bearing arms, against their conscience. Further details are regulated by a federal law." Said details involve how a male German at the relevant age was allowed to dodge military service by performing a civilian service, which typically consisted of assisting the staff in a hospital, or an educational institution. Some even got to drive an ambulance.

When I reached the age of 18, I was told to report to a military office in Saarbrücken, where I would have to undergo a medical check-up. It was also to be determined on that day when and where I would have to serve. Owing to a peculiarity of the German secondary schools, I was going to graduate only at age 20, so my actual service was postponed by another two years. Also, the day of the medical examination I already filed for the option of civilian service. Now, legally speaking it isn't really an option, rather than a replacement, as the military service was considered the standard way, and the civilian service an exemption; this did not change the fact that in my generation about 50% of the young German males rejected military service and were accepted into civilian service; not least because civilian service personnel was considered an important factor in staffing hospitals and other community institutions.

Nevertheless, in order to be accepted one had to write an essay, laying down the reasons why one's conscience would not allow a participation in an armed conflict. I remember stressing on my upbringing, on attending a catholic high school, on watching influencial movies such as Full Metal Jacket, and on other similar things ... I eventually received a letter from a federal office that said I was exempt from the military and could serve the civilian way, and that this decision could not be legally challenged. I was quite happy, because besides the prospect of actually killing someone, which I honestly would not want to do, I have always imagined the military as a place where people get yelled at, and have to perform dull tasks. Instead, I thought of the civilian service as a satisfying commitment; especially at that kindergarden where I was going to perform my duties. In hindsight, this is quite ironic ...

The idea of serving in a kindergarden was originally my mom's, who encouraged me to seek a post where I could rely on my ease of connecting with children. Sounded great to me, too. So I ended up being hired by a charity organization; in order to assume the preferred duty station, one has to acquire the post themselves, present it to the authorities, and the wait to have it formally approved. That's how it worked for me, and after a proud and joyful graduation from high school in June 1996, I started my civilian service on September 2, 1996. (Typically the service starts on a first of a month, but in my case that would have been a Sunday, so I had formally one day less of service, and in practice one day less of pay.)

It started out fine, and as it happened my "predecessor" was still around for a few weeks. He had to serve a total of 15 months, while it had been reduced to 13 months right before my term started. By coincidence he was also the son of a former high school teacher of mine; a lady who has enabled me (quite well) to read Latin texts (up to the point of being able to follow Julius Cesar's accounts of his war against the Gauls). Therefore, although this guy (who had also attended the same school) and I had never been socially involved, we did know one another, and he knew that I had been a successful student (in all modesty I ranked third out of more than 80 students in my year). While for me this was an obligation to perform well also in this new environment, for one of the staff it became the ultimate reason to bully me all the way through my 13 months of civilian service.

At this point you perhaps exclaim, wait a minute - how can you be bullied by a member of the staff of a kindergarden? Aren't these supposed to be nice ladies (ofr, less often, gentlemen) who read fairy tales to the little ones, and offer sweet treats to anyone who comes around? Or so I thought myself, in all naïveté, and of course I would never have revealed my scholastic achievements to my new colleages without them asking - it was the other guy who hinted it to them, and when they asked I had no choice but to answer.

That alone would haven't led anywhere. Turns out, one of the four permanent staff ladies (two for each group of fifteen children) apparently envied me for my past and future academic ambitions (college was next for me), especially because she had acquired her permission to attend college in televised classes, and still at her age (then mid-thirties) she would have to find a source of money to get her actually all the way through that stage, while I could still rely on my parents to fund me. So, obviously I was privileged, and she was not, but I would like to think that I earned my tertiary education, and that I belonged in college, and even in grad school. I feel sorry that said lady could not live her dream, but it wasn't right of her to take it out on me. I would like to refrain from whining about each and every incident, because that was not my goal when I started this post, and especially because this happened many years ago.

Nevertheless, I feel I should exemplify the lady's behavior, and there was one particularly revealing incident: one day another kindergarden, who belonged to the same organization but didn't have anyone performing his civilian service at that time, decided to go on a day trip to an amusement park. Therefore they requested that I be their driver for that one day. So I hopped on one of the vans the charity organization actually owned in two-digit numbers, drove to the other kindergarden, then onward to the amusement park, and finally back home. Everyone was happy, and the staff of the other kindergarden and I apparently clicked pretty well. A few days later I was told by my bully colleague that they liked me so much that they would even hire me, as the post of doing civilian service continued to be vacant; but she went on and told me that she couldn't understand why anyone would like to do something like that. - That compliment was a tad tainted, to say the least, eh?

Again, my intention is not to whine about such (obviously) unfair treatment, nor to publicly expose an old bully. While such erratic behavior still leaves me speechless, in particular when shown by someone who is entrusted with the well-being of three to six year old, at the time I felt I could not fight back - because of the little children. And it was them who helped me to get through this dark period, because at the end of the day my mom was right: I did enjoy their company. It enabled me to be walking tall, despite the hostilities I was receiving.

Now, this is how far I can stick out my neck without sounding too self-righteous. And in fact, I wanted to share a lesson learned on happiness: if you are able to find it somewhere, then many a hardship becomes bearable. Not all, but many. To put it into perspective, my civilian service turned out to be the third most difficult time of my life (as of today). The second most difficult time was due to a very painful breakup. The foremost difficult time of my life so far was the period of unemployment after coming home from my postdoc. Hence, another lesson learned: everything is easier if I have the benefit of feeling useful ... Luckily, there was a happy ending; so if I do an occasional whining about the lack of entertainment in my new home town, please bear in mind that the alternative of being unemployed would mean to me the very essence of doom.